Chef Tak teaches Americans the art of Japanese cuisine

MOSES LAKE — Their journey two months ago brought them to the Columbia Basin, where they hope to teach lessons of a faraway land and maybe even learn a few of their own while they are here.

As they sat in their house on Marina Drive overlooking the lake on New Year’s Day, they welcomed in the Year of the Rooster in accordance with the Chinese zodiac. They are Japanese by origin, but have lived in the United States for 50 years now.

As they sat looking out over the frozen terrain of a central Washington winter, maybe wondering what the future might bring, their answer appeared in the form of local wildlife.

“Suddenly, this beautiful pheasant, full tail, came into the yard,” he said. “We looked at each other, knowing it was a good omen.”

With that, Takeyuki Suetsugu and his wife Minae ushered in the Year of the Rooster and the newest leg of their journey. Suetsugu, known simply as Chef Tak, is one of just three Master Chefs in the United States and one of nine worldwide. His journey to this point is in layers.

Chef Tak, who was awarded the Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador Commendation in April, is sharing his knowledge and training as the head instructor at the culinary program, which is run in partnership with the U.S. Forest Service, Job Corps and Washoku Satsuma Inc. As a Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador, he hopes to continue his promotion of Japanese cuisine throughout the world.

“We’ve lived in the U.S. for 50 years, so American cities are not new to us. But this is the first time we’ve lived in a smaller community,” said Chef Tak, who organized Seattle’s Japanese Restaurant Association and was given the title of Honorary Academy Chef from the American Academy of Chefs (2001).

“We’ve noticed the people here in Moses Lake are genuinely interested in Japanese culture. I am pleased with that and very impressed with the downtown district.”

“And there’s no need to always be looking for parking,” Minae chimed in, in that way couples that have been married a long time do in reading each other’s thoughts. He nodded in recognition.

The Suetsugus opened their first Washington state restaurant, Satsuma Restaurant in Burien, in 1976. In the late 1980s they owned restaurants in Denver. They returned to Seattle to run Nikko Restaurant in The Westin Seattle hotel from 1997 to 2002. In 2003, they opened Bistro Satsuma in Gig Harbor, which they just closed after 14 years to move to Moses Lake.

Japanese food, like much of its culture, is based on tradition, and Chef Tak intends to share his knowledge with his students at the Columbia Basin Job Corps culinary program in preparing food meant to stimulate the senses.

“I not only teach them how to cook; I try to teach them how to dream big,” he said. “When I came to this country, I had just $135 in my pocket. So anything is possible to those who work hard.”

One of Chef Tak’s most popular dishes is Ika Satsuma: squid sautéed in oil and unsalted butter with white pepper and soy sauce. It’s served with mushroom and zucchini. In another of his signature dishes, he wraps lobster tail in nori seaweed, dips it in egg and then deep fries it. It’s served with a sauce made from five different kinds of mushrooms.

It is said that he can turn Columbia Basin potatoes into a culinary masterpiece and a potato salad to die for. He just smiles and shrugs; like your grandma’s award-winning ingredients, some things are known only to the creator.

The Year of the Rooster is proving beneficial to those who enjoy authentic Japanese cuisine. Moses Lake’s ties to Japanese culture date back to 1968 when Japanese Airlines began flight training at the Grant County International Airport.

With the arrival of the Moses Lake Mitsubishi Flight Test Center and AstaReal, Inc. comes a new generation’s demand for his culinary creations. With that, the Bento Box Factory was created and Chef Tak’s students are learning how make traditional Japanese bento box lunches, which are sold to employees at Mitsubishi Aircraft and AstaReal. The revenue goes back into the Job Corps program for the purchase of supplies and Chef Tak’s salary.

“It’s not a business for profit,” he said with a smile. “It is one of learning discipline, Japanese culture and skill in making dishes. It also helps support the school.”

They are one month into the Year of the Rooster, and Chef Tak and Minae have settled into their newest leg of their journey.

“When we moved here, they said it’s always warm and sunny,300 days,” Minae said with a smile. “It’s snowing again today.”

At least there’s good food to eat while they wait for sunny days.

The Bento Box Factory meals are available to the general public with a minimum purchase of five orders. For more information or to order from Bento Box Factory online, go to www.washokusatsuma.com.