Summer corn, on or off the cob

In botany, corn is the name given to the leading cereal crop of any major region. In England, corn means wheat; in Scotland and Ireland, oats. In America, corn is the grain called maize, or Indian corn, a grass that was domesticated and cultivated long before Europeans reached the New World. Native Americans raised many varieties (e.g., sweet corn, popcorn, colored corn, and corn for cornmeal). Most corn now is used for animal feed.

The corn plant consists of the tassel (male flowers) at the top of the plant; the kernels (female flowers) on the cob, enclosed by a leafy husk, beyond which extends the silk (the threadlike stigmas and styles that catch the pollen); and the supporting pithy, noded stalk with its prop roots.

Before sweet corn was widely available, many people ate field corn, but only before it got too ripe and starchy.

When choosing fresh ears of corn, look for fresh, moist husks; no worm damage; kernels well-filled, tender, and milky when punctured. Refrigerate unhusked corn until ready to use. (Corn is best when eaten as soon after picking as possible.) If you put your ears in a plastic bag at the store, remove from bag before putting in fridge. Husk ears and remove silk just before cooking.

There are a number of ways to cook fresh corn. To boil, place corn in enough unsalted cold water to cover. Add 1 tablespoon sugar if you want to help sweeten your corn. Heat water to boiling and boil uncovered 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Let stand uncovered 10 minutes before serving.

To steam, place steamer basket in 1/2 inch water (the water shouldn't touch bottom of the basket). Put corn in the basket. Cover tightly and heat to boiling; reduce heat. Steam 6 to 9 minutes or until tender. To microwave, place corn and 1/4 cup water in square microwavable dish, 8x8x2 inches. Cover tightly and microwave on high 9 to 14 minutes or until tender, rearranging ears after 5 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. To grill, remove large outer husks. Turn back inner husks and remove silks. Pull husks back over ears and tie with fine wire. Cover and grill corn 3 inches from medium coals 15 to 25 minutes, turning frequently, until tender.

CORN SALSA

• 4 ears of fresh corn, shucked
• 1/2 medium white onion, finely chopped
• 1 to 2 fresh serrano chilies, minced
• 1 ripe tomato, seeded and chopped
• 1/2 cup of loosely packed chopped fresh cilantro
• 3 tablespoons of fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil or olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon of salt

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the corn until just tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Cool under running water. With a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cobs. Place the corn kernels in a large bowl. Mix in the onion, chilies, tomato, cilantro, oil, and lime juice. Adjust seasonings. Chill 2 hours before serving.

BAKED FRESH CORN

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt
• Pinch of pepper
• 1 1/2 cups half-and-half
• 2 1/4 cups freshly-cut corn kernels
• 3 beaten eggs
• 3/4 cup buttered bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and blend with a wire whisk. Season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, bring the half-and-half to a boil and add all at once to the butter-flour mixture, stirring vigorously with the whisk until the sauce is thickened and smooth. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the corn. Slowly add the beaten eggs, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture into a greased baking dish and top with the bread crumbs. Sprinkle with paprika and place in a shallow pan of hot water. Bake 45 to 50 minutes.

GRILLED CORN

• 6 ears corn
• 6 tablespoons butter, room temperature
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat an outdoor grill for high heat and lightly oil grate. If this is charcoal, it could be at least 30 minutes before coals are hot enough. For gas, let heat for at 10 minutes.

Peel back corn husks and remove silk. Place 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pepper on each piece of corn. Close husks. Wrap each ear of corn tightly in aluminum foil. Place on the hot grill. Cook 20 to 30 minutes, or until corn is cooked through. This may vary, depending on the size of your corn.

SCALLOPED CORN

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/4 cup chopped onion
• 1/2 small green bell pepper, chopped
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
• Pinch of pepper
• 3/4 cup milk
• 1 egg, slightly beaten
• 2 cups freshly-cut corn kernels
• 1/3 cup cracker crumbs
• 1 tablespoon butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in saucepan over medium heat. Cook onion and bell pepper in margarine about two minutes, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened. Remove from heat. Stir in flour, salt, paprika, mustard, and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is bubbly; remove from heat. Gradually stir in milk. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Stir in corn and egg. Pour into ungreased 1-quart casserole baking dish. Mix crumbs and 1 tablespoon butter. Sprinkle over corn mixture. Bake uncovered 30 to 35 minutes or until bubbly.

CORN FRITTERS

• Vegetable oil
• 2 cups fresh corn
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon pepper
• 1 egg
• 1 teaspoon melted butter
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 cups flour
• 2 teaspoon baking powder
• Powdered sugar

In a medium pot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil to 360 degrees. Chop corn very fine and add salt, pepper, well beaten egg, melted butter, milk, flour and baking powder. Drop batter by tablespoonfuls into hot oil. Fry two to three minutes, until golden brown. Drain onto paper towels. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

CORN AND CRABMEAT CHOWDER

• 4 ears corn
• 3/4 pound potatoes
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion
• 1 1/2 cups finely chopped celery
• 1 cup bottled clam juice
• 1 cup water
• 1 cup half-and-half
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (optional)
• 2 cups fresh lump crabmeat (pick over well to remove bits of shell and cartilage)
• 1/4 cup finely chopped coriander

Bring enough water to a boil to cover the ears of corn when they are added. Put in the corn and when the water returns to the boil, turn off the heat, cover, and let stand 5 minutes. Drain and let cool. Scrape the kernels from the cobs; there should be about 2 cups. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1/4 inch cubes, there should be about 1 1/2 cups. Add cold water to cover and set aside. Heat the butter in a saucepan and add the onions and celery. Drain the potatoes and add them. Cook, stirring, until the onions are wilted. Add the clam juice, water, half-and-half, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Add the corn and half of the crabmeat and stir. Let simmer 6 to 8 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender without being mushy. Add the remaining crabmeat and stir gently. When the soup is heated through, ladle it into hot soup bowls and sprinkle each with the chopped coriander. Serve.