More on soil testing

Today we backtrack a bit and then continue with soil testing.

Soil testing “kits” are provided by several of the soil testing firms in the area. These kits consist of pint-quart size bags which the gardener fills and labels with pertinent identifying information.

The rules of thumb for taking samples for testing include: Sampling where crops are being planted or have been planted only, rather than taking soil from paths or other areas outside the garden.

Try to sample representative areas of the garden and stay away from poorly drained areas or previously used nutrient rich areas like the compost pile, barnyard or manure heap.

Using a clean bucket, collect samples from as many as a dozen spots in the garden to a depth of 1 foot (though deeper sampling is suggested for deeper rooting crops if that is typical for your situation). Make sure the tools used are also clean to avoid any sample contamination. Thoroughly mix the soil in the bucket and take as much as possible to fill the sample bag. If the garden is large or you have distinct areas that you think may have different needs, consider testing in those areas too. However, that will mean extra costs.

Be sure to avoid including organic matter in the bags (lumps of compost, manure, leave, twigs or clippings) as this can skew the sampling.

However, gardeners are always advised to talk to the preferred soil testing firms for specific directions or to help decide what tests to run and, of course, to get a cost list. It takes a few days to get results. Tests are quantified using standardized professional standards by technicians working in pristine laboratory environments. The Master Gardeners can help you locate soil testing laboratories that will perform soil tests for home gardeners in your area.

Typically, Grant and Adams counties soils are low in nitrogen and sulfur, both of which are soluble in water which means that these nutrients can leach away rather quickly. Some of the trace elements like boron, zinc, and copper are important to crop health on a commercial scale but may not be reflected as much in-home gardens. Many of our soils are on the alkaline side of the pH scale. If pH gets much above 8.0 gardeners can consider amending them to bring the pH closer to 7.0 which is considered neutral. High or low pH can tie up nutrients making them unavailable to plants so it is important to monitor and find ways to maintain or improve conditions often. Our soils are typically low in organic matter.

More on soil testing next week.