Gardener shares poinsettia history and care tips

In the 1820s, President John Quincy Adams appointed Joel Roberts Poinsett the first United States Ambassador to Mexico. During his stay in Mexico he wandered the countryside looking for new plant species. In 1828, he found a beautiful shrub with large red flowers growing next to a road. He took cuttings from the plant and brought them back to his greenhouse in South Carolina. Even though Poinsett had an outstanding career as a United States congressman and as an ambassador, he will always be remembered for introducing the poinsettia, which was later named for him, into the United States. The poinsettia did not start to become popular in the United States until the early 1900s.

Today, when someone wants a flowering plant for a holiday centerpiece, a red poinsettia is usually the plant of choice. The red poinsettia makes up about 75 percent of the poinsettias sold each year in this country. White and pink poinsettias come in as second and third. There are also other color options available including salmon, apricot, plum, burgundy, dark red, creamy white, and speckled, marbled, or variegated novelty varieties (cultivars).

It is important to select the best plant for your home environment. The following are a few selection pointers:

Choose a plant with dark green foliage down to the soil line.

Choose bracts (modified leaves) that are completely colored.

Do not purchase poinsettias with a lot of green around the bract edges.

Do not choose plants with fallen or yellowed leaves.

The poinsettia should look full, balanced and attractive from all sides.

The plant should be 2 1/2 times taller than the diameter of the container.

Choose plants that are not drooping or wilting.

Do not purchase plants that are displayed in paper or plastic sleeves. Plants held in sleeves will deteriorate quickly.

Do not purchase plants that have been displayed or crowded close together. Crowding can cause premature bract loss.

Check the plant's soil. If it's wet and the plant is wilted, this could be an indication of root rot.

Check undersides of leaves for insects like aphids and whiteflies.

Check the poinsettia's maturity. Check the true flowers (or cyathia) which are located at the base of the colored bracts. If the flowers are green or red-tipped and fresh looking the bloom will "hold" longer than if yellow pollen is covering the flowers.

After you have made your poinsettia selection, make sure it is covered properly when transporting because exposure to low temperatures, even for a few minutes, can damage the bracts and leaves.

Whether a poinsettia has come into your home by way of a gift or as a traditional holiday decorating item, there is the question of, "How do I take care of it?" With good care, a poinsettia will last up to six to eight weeks in your home. Poinsettias should be placed where they will receive indirect light for six hours. Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts and they should never touch cold window panes. Ideally, poinsettias require daytime temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and night time temperatures around 55 degrees. High temperatures will shorten the plant's life; if possible move the plant to a cooler room at night.

Water when soil is dry allowing water to drain into the saucer, always discarding excess water if there is any left over. If in foil, be sure to punch holes in the foil so water can drain into a saucer. Wilted plants will tend to drop bracts sooner. If wilting does occur, immediately water and allow it to filter through. Water again five minutes later to ensure the potting medium is well soaked. Don't fertilize your poinsettia when it is in bloom.

There is a way to overwinter and save your potted poinsettia so you can enjoy it next Christmas. In the spring after all danger of frost is past place the poinsettia outdoors where it is sunny, but avoid direct sun during the hottest part of the day. Prune all branches back to within 6 inches of the soil line and if necessary, re-pot it in a larger container. Throughout the summer growing period, a half-strength houseplant fertilizer should be applied every to to three weeks. Keep tips pinched back to encourage branching. In mid-September, bring the poinsettia back into the house and maintain it in a well-lighted area.

To prepare a poinsettia to set flower buds that will be in bloom during the Christmas season, all artificial light must be excluded from the plant for 16 hours each day. Either cover the plant with a lightproof box each evening or place it in an unlit room or closet in absolute darkness. Even a momentary flash of light will interrupt the necessary dark period and inhibit the setting of flower buds.

The following is a general time schedule for bring poinsettias into bloom:

Mid-September: Bring the plant inside and place in a draft-free area where the temperature does not drop below 60 degrees.

Early October: Begin giving the plant long nights (complete darkness from 5 pm until 8 am). Mid-November: Color should be showing in the bracts.

Early December: Bract color should be almost complete; plant can be brought into ordinary light.

During the "bloom" forcing period, keep the temperature between 60 and 70 degrees. The plant should receive all possible sunlight during the day. Reduce fertilizer applications since the plant grows less while in the house. If possible, avoid spraying the plant with chemicals after the bracts begin to develop color. Keeping a poinsettia from one year to the next takes effort, but may be worthwhile for a special variety or color.