White Heron's Cameron Fries studied in Europe
One of the reasons Cameron and Phyllis Fries struggle to build White Heron Cellars into a thriving business 25 years after opening is this view of the Columbia River and Crescent Bar from the winery.
Brother-in-law Ray Hankinson, who works in the Interiors Resource Center for Boeing in Everett, shares a sip with Cameron Fries during a recent visit. Hankinson comes to the Crescent Bar area as often as he can, saying: ÒWhat's not to like. The Grand Canyon with a lake.Ó
TRINIDAD - Once he decided he wanted to be a wine maker, White Heron Cellars's Cameron Fries knew he needed to learn from the best, and he headed for Europe.
"My wife Phyllis worked as a nurse to keep us alive," he said.
Fries spent five years in Europe, starting in 1986. He came back to take a position with Champs de Brionne, which was the forerunner to the Cave B Estate Winery.
"Part of the deal was that I would get to start my own project in this area," Fries said.
White Heron is not where it needs to be financially, but part of the reason is isolation. It is located a long way from the nearest winery and off the highway enough to go unnoticed by some travelers.
Fries hopes that situation will be alleviated by the designation of a new Ancient Lakes of Columbia AVA (American Viticultural Area) that will include his operation. It may be accomplished by the end of the year.
"After the AVA application was accepted, two important wine writers, including Paul Gregutt from the Seattle Times, came by," Fries said. "They interviewed the wineries in the area."
Fries is also hoping for added exposure from group promotions. He's hoping to get all Grant County wineries to a one-day wine festival at Crescent Bar this year.
Fries opened White Heron in 1986. It is now the longest-standing winery in North Central Washington.
"This (ground) was sagebrush when we purchased it," Fries said.
A couple of reasons Fries chose the ground is the slope and the nearby Columbia River. The slopes provides adequate air drainage for frost Ted Escobar/Crescent Bar Chronicle, and the river acts as a heat source.Ted Escobar/Crescent Bar Chronicle Fries noted that on the same night the temperature dropped to minus-6 in the Tri-Cities last winter, his place was at plus-6 degrees.Ted Escobar/Crescent Bar Chronicle "Twelve degrees can be a big difference," he said.
Fries planted his 14-acre vineyard with a high density of 2,200 plants per acre. There is a strong belief in Europe that high density vineyards produce high quality wines, he said.
According to Fries, the business comes close to paying for itself, but it's not quite there. Phyllis continues to be the support that keeps the family going. She has worked for the Grant County Health District and the educational services district and is now in her first year with the Eastmont School District.
"It's been difficult but, as my wife says, we get to live in a beautiful spot, and when we get depressed, we drink wine," Fries said.