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A lesson in the fine art of wine

by Cameron Fries<br> Contributing Writer
| June 1, 2011 6:00 AM

The biggest problem wine presents to the average person is the overwhelming amount of information about wine.  Over the centuries the grapevine has mutated enough so that current estimates suggest there are around 11,000 different varieties of European grapevines.  And this does not count American or Asian grape varieties.  Then each of these grapes will taste different depending on where it is planted and depending on the weather of the year. 

Until just a few months ago European regulations forbade putting the name of the variety on the label, only the region could be listed.  Therefore one has to memorize which varieties are planted in which region in order to know what is in the glass.  Then the islands upon which the English language evolved have historically been too cold for grapes and a wine vocabulary never developed.  Thus we are forced to use French terms such as "terroir".  Finally, in the ever-curious human quest to define our universe, wine drinkers have developed a descriptive vocabulary that is incomprehensible to the average person - "The nose of this wine reminds of bright cherry overlaid with tobacco and asphalt tones.  The palate, although rich, is nicely structured with a good acidic backbone and firm tannins."

To the wine enthusiast the world of wine presents an ever-changing universe, filled with new and different tastes and flavors.  It is possible for the person - who does not wish to attain the equivalent of a university degree - to enjoy wine in all its complexity.  Wine is like art.  Most of us are willing to look at a picture and - without knowing anything about art history - decide if we like it or not.  We need to approach wine in the same way.  Does it taste good or not?

The University of California at Davis undertook a study of the human tongue.  To nobody's surprise everybody's tongue is different and the density of taste buds on the tongue varies significantly.  Thus we all taste things differently on a physical level.  I have therefore begun to define a connoisseur of wine as somebody who can describe what it is they like.

I was lucky enough one time to be sitting with my family in a restaurant in Beaune, France, where they grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  The wine list included well over 300 different wines from the region made from these grapes.  There are many wine enthusiasts who would be capable of choosing their favorites from among all these wines.  I am not one of them.  I was however able to express to the somellier (the individual who is trained to know the wine list) what styles we like and he was able to choose wines for us that fit us perfectly.

Most restaurants that have large and confusing wine lists will have someone on hand who is familiar with the wines and can help select wine.  The problem with simplifying wine to "Do I like it or not" is food.  Just as we may like a landscape in spring but not the same landscape in winter, so we may like a wine with food but not by itself.  Different foods effect wine in different ways.  However, the more you learn the more you will be able to decide how to pair food and wine.