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They really mean family at the Tijuana restaurant

by Ted Escobar<Br> Chronicle Editor
| December 2, 2011 5:15 AM

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Angelica and Martin Cobian, owners of the Tijuana restaurant in Quincy, started at a Tijuana in Monroe. Now they own a second restaurant - Casuelas - in Ritzville.

QUINCY - Most restaurants that employ the word "family" in their name are implying that theirs is a good place for a sit down family meal, but "family" means even more at Quincy's Tijuana.

It means that Tijuana is a good place for family to work. Especially now that economic times are tough and businesses are taking big hits.

"We're grateful we have a place to work," said Angelica Cobian, co-owner with her husband Martin. "Business is not as good as it was in 2007, but it pays its bills and the bills at home."

Of the nine people who work at Tijuana, seven are related. They include two brothers of Martin, a sister of Angelica and a cousin of Martin.

At the restaurant the Cobians own at Ritzville, named Casuelas, the manager is Angelica's sister, and one of the employees is Angelica's brother-in-law. Martin's brother is a cook.

"My sister worked here," Angelica said. "When we opened over there, she moved."

The Cobian family is from the state of Jalisco, about halfway down the Mexican Pacific Coast and far from the border town of Tijuana. The restaurant is called Tijuana because the Cobians have a partner for whom they worked at Tijuana Restaurant in Monroe.

The Cobians did not follow the normal pattern of progression for most families that migrate from Mexico. Instead of starting in agriculture, they went right to restaurant work.

Angelica and Martin are from the same town in Jalisco but didn't know each other when he came to the U.S. the first time. They met when he returned after a year.

"He came the first time to earn money for his family," Angelica said. "His father died when he was 16, and he was left head of the household, and he took that responsibility seriously. He does to this date. His youngest brother thinks of him as his father."

Angelica and Martin met and started dating when she was 18. It was her dream to come to America, and she looked forward to their wedding.

"He came back to America to earn money so we could get married," Angelica said. "And still he sent money home to his family."

Angelica was still 18 when she came to join Martin. Theirs was a small wedding. Family members who attended were her father, her uncle and aunt, her grandfather and his cousin.

"The reception was in an apartment. We had music on CD," Angelica said. "We went to a restaurant for dinner."

Then the Cobians started life together working for Felipe Velasco at the Monroe Tijuana. Angelica started out as a bus girl so she wouldn't have to speak to customers.

"I didn't know a lot of English," she said. "Even thought it's a Mexican restaurant, you have to know English. Most of the customers are English-speaking."

Angelica was speaking English after six month, and she was elevated to hostess and cashier.

The Cobians had worked together seven years, and Martin was in his 11th year at Monroe's Tijuana when he announced he wanted to be his own boss.

The idea scared Angelica. She felt secure in Monroe, even more so when she visited Quincy. Compared to Monroe, Quincy was small.

But Martin was adamant, and Angelica wanted to do whatever made him happy.

Now you would need a pry bar to get her out of Quincy. She has three sons in the school system, and she likes the community.

Martin talked with Velasco about his need to go on his own, with or without Velasco's help. Velasco chose to help.

The Cobians opened in September of 2001. And even though Velasco's a partner, the Cobians operate as if they are on their own.

"We are truly grateful to Felipe," Angelica said.

The Tijuana is a Mexican restaurant, but the Cobians are cognizant of the fact there aren't many American restaurants. They offer American style steaks and other American favorites, including chicken nuggets and hamburgers.

Martin gave Angelica another scare in 2009 when he announced he wanted to open Casuelas. The American economy had fallen by then, and it seemed like the wrong time to start a business.

On the other hand, with experienced staff ready lead, the idea wasn't so scary. Casuelas is holding its own and is providing gainful employment for three family members.

"We don't even have to go over there," Angelica said. "They know what they're doing."

Now, all the Cobians have to do is weather the current economic storm. Their costs have gone up and suppliers are charging for delivery, but they are holding the line on prices.

"If you raise prices, you discourage the customers," Angelica said. "We have to try to keep going this way."

And keep the family working.